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To differentiate between Caviar and Lambskin in authentic Chanel bags, look for the pebbled appearance and durability of Caviar. Lambskin, on the other hand, has a buttery texture and is more delicate and prone to scratches. Caviar is distinguished by its pebbled appearance and durability.

Chanel bags usually have flathead screws on the back of the lock, while more modern designs may also feature star-shaped screws. In contrast, you will never find an X-shaped screw on the bag’s lock.  

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Rumor has it that Coco Chanel herself used the discreet zip pocket under the outer flap to store her love letters, adding an air of mystery and romance to the bag’s story.

 I talk about material versus cultural value and how over time (especially due to social media) we gravitate heavily towards the latter. Chanel straddles this line very well.

The iconic Chanel flap bag is a wonderful addition to any fashion wardrobe. See more of our favorite Chanel treasures in our article about the pieces we are coveting from the new Chanel collection.

Many Flap Bags even feature an uncommon hidden zipper compartment, rumoured to have been used by Coco to hide love letters during one of many glorious periods in her love life.

The most prominent hardware on the bag is the iconic Chanel logo, which is two interlocking Cs. It gleams in gold or silver like the bag’s jewelry. The logo is not a flat shape but two three-dimensional letters that actually lock together on an authentic Chanel bag.

 Caution: If you are authenticating a used Chanel bag that uses a chip technology instead of hologram (early year 2021 and newer) skip to authentication step 2 and then follow detailed steps later in the article that describe how to authenticate newer Chanel bags with NFC chip technology.

While the Chanel Classic Flap bag is distinguished by its interlocking CC lock, that bag design came Chanel serial number guide much later. The 2.55 bag featured a sturdy rectangular turn-key lock, ensuring that a woman’s private purse contents stayed private.

The initial number of a seven-digit Chanel date code and the first two numbers of an eight-digit code correspond to the year the bag was manufactured. The date codes are made up entirely of numbers; there are pelo Xs. The letter X in the chart above simply indicates the place of a random number.

Join us as we stroll down fashion history lane and remember some of the most enduring handbags from the house of Chanel. Here is a brief history of the iconic Chanel flap bag.

While Chanel bags in pristine condition often command a premium over retail, Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of these bags in a variety of the most sought-after colors and sizes through our marketplace. By shopping with Sotheby’s, you can purchase a store-fresh Chanel bag without the need to visit a physical store. While Chanel boutiques offer these coveted designs, their inventory is often limited, making it challenging to find a specific color, style, or size.

Fake Chanel bags may exhibit inconsistencies such as unevenly spaced quilting or misaligned diamond patterns, a clear indication of inauthenticity, unlike the genuine Chanel bags manufactured with precision and care.

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